Keepers of a Way of Life
Gwich鈥檌n youth play an important role in protecting the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.
In the Arctic, Gwich鈥檌n youth are learning that protecting land means preserving a way of life.
On Alaska鈥檚 North Slope, where polar bears den and gray wolves howl, protecting the land isn鈥檛 about supporting a cause or posting on social media from a protest at city hall. Here, it鈥檚 a matter of survival.
Jewels Gilbert never meant to become an environmentalist. Caring for the land was ingrained in her since childhood. She joined her dad for her first hunt at the tender age of 7. The now 20-year-old barely remembers it, but she knows that they鈥檇 start out from their home in Arctic Village, Alaska, some three hours up the clear blue Chandalar River, and rumble north by motorboat into the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge鈥�19 million acres of 颅wilderness鈥攖o seek sustenance.
Gilbert didn鈥檛 handle any weapons that first time; she watched and learned as her dad caught some brown-feathered ducks to bring home and roast.
Nowadays, Gilbert still rides up the same river to hunt in the bitter, nippy woods. The nostalgia always weighs heavy whenever she feels the wind鈥檚 frosty kiss on her skin or sees the river lapping toward the trees along the riverbank. Her 22-year-old boyfriend, Brennan Firth, joins her, and together they search for enough food to last them through the winter.

Arianna Gilbert takes a tasting break while learning how to forage for berries, a Gwich鈥檌n tradition. Photo: Keri Oberly
This tradition鈥攕talking, shooting and skinning your meal鈥攊s a key way of life for the Gwich鈥檌n, the indigenous people who have roamed these lands for more than 20,000 years. Hunting isn鈥檛 optional; it鈥檚 necessary when a piece of steak costs as much as a box of ammunition. That鈥檚 why Gilbert is sure to say a little prayer in her native Gwich鈥檌n tongue after a successful catch. And all these skills鈥攖he language, the hunt and the craft of beading traditional clothing鈥攕he helps to pass along in her job teaching at the local elementary school.
鈥淚t鈥檚 pretty much who we are,鈥� Gilbert says.
Gwich鈥檌n culture is now under threat. After decades of failed attempts, the Republican Party has finally opened up a portion of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge to oil and gas interests. This industry could devastate the Refuge鈥檚 delicate ecosystem on which the Gwich鈥檌n depend. It鈥檚 not only home to polar bears and gray wolves, but also the revered Porcupine caribou calves along this 1.6 million颅-acre coastal plain鈥攁 site proposed for drilling that the Gwich鈥檌n consider sacred.
Not all young people are as excited about living the way Gilbert and Firth do, but community leaders鈥攆rom elders to teachers鈥攁re playing an active role in showing the youth the way. For the Gwich鈥檌n, maintaining their culture may be their best chance to save the Refuge.
In the Arctic, the purpose isn鈥檛 advocacy or activism. The purpose is, well, life. As in the Lower 48, roughly 95 percent of food many Alaskans eat is imported, per a 2014 report commissioned by the state. But relying on grocery shelves is a luxury the Gwich鈥檌n don鈥檛 need. They鈥檝e known this life鈥攐f hunting and gathering鈥攁s long as they鈥檝e existed.
鈥淸Protecting the Refuge] is a huge part of their way of life and their future,鈥� says Bernadette Demientieff, the executive director of the Gwich鈥檌n Steering Committee, which has been protecting the Refuge from fossil fuel exploration since 1988. Demientieff has been actively involved in safeguarding the Refuge since 2005, and she鈥檚 learned to roar when she talks about it.

The Arctic Refuge is home to gray wolves, including this one seen in the Jago River valley, Alaska. Photo: Austin Siadak
This First Nation has been shouldering this responsibility for what feels like forever. Republicans have been trying to extract natural resources from the Refuge since 1980 when President Jimmy Carter signed the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act, which made exploration possible. Under President Donald Trump, attempts to drill in the Refuge are accelerating.
Meanwhile, Gwich鈥檌n youth have been around amid all this.
Demientieff was about 12 years old when this all began. Even at that young age, she knew protecting the land was urgent. Now, that urgency is even more palpable. That鈥檚 why the Gwich鈥檌n Steering Committee is creating an official youth board, which will offer the youngsters a platform to help defend the Refuge. Some seven youth joined in June.
But it鈥檚 not always easy to introduce youth to their culture (while maintaining interest). Staying inside is much more appealing in the age of iPads, PlayStations and, well, the internet. Interacting with the land doesn鈥檛 sound as lit when the latest social media trend is taking over teenagers鈥� feeds.

Getting an early education into traditional ways. Nine-year-old Cannon Cadzow helps his grandfather Earl build a fish wheel for salmon season. Photo: Keri Oberly
This wasn鈥檛 always the case. Wanda Pascal remembers; she鈥檚 always lived off the land. At 58, she still wanders the mountains in the fall to gather her winter supply of Labrador tea leaves, which her people have learned benefit their stomachs. The former chief of Fort McPherson in Canada still goes out to hunt. No one鈥檚 got their dog teams handy to pull them across the ice anymore, though. Things were easier then, she says. Dogs are pretty reliable. Pascal now depends on trucks and snowmobiles, or Ski-Doos as she calls them. Gas is expensive, and, ahem … vehicles can break down.
鈥淚f I go into the school and explain to the kids what I learned when I was small,鈥� Pascal says, 鈥渟ome of them wouldn鈥檛 believe me.鈥�
Change is always tough, but now Pascal has upgraded to being the teacher, not the student. Her grandfather taught her to hunt and work with caribou. Her grandmother taught her how to cut it. She鈥檚 now teaching those same skills to her grandkids. And no, she won鈥檛 let them bring their gadgets and gizmos outdoors鈥攅xcept for maybe their cellphones to snap some pics.
鈥淚f they want caribou or dry meat, they have to go out and help us hunt,鈥� Pascal says. 鈥淭hey have to work hard to get what they want.鈥�

The Gilbert family and friends cut up caribou meat at their home in Vashr膮寞寞 K鈥櫱�, Alaska. Opening up the Refuge to extractive industries threatens this Gwich鈥檌n tradition. Photo: Keri Oberly
This past spring, the grandmother joined her 15-year-old granddaughter for a camping trip with some friends in the Richardson Mountains, whose snow-covered peaks glistened just beneath a setting sun. There, some 20 minutes west of their home, the girls tried to find caribou among the white mountains. They didn鈥檛 find any, but another hunter gladly gave them some.
Pascal is constantly teaching her family the basics: how to pick berries, find traditional medicine in the woods, fish and, of course, hunt caribou. She can cook it any which way you can think of鈥攊n a burger, fried, stewed, boiled or dipped in grease to be roasted by the fire. This, too, the next generation must learn.
And Pascal鈥檚 five grandkids are up to the task. Her 3-year-old grandson even joins them on their ventures through the snow. Her 11-year-old granddaughter, J鈥檒yn Valentsi, is already winning awards for being her grade鈥檚 most traditional on the land. Some schools may celebrate perfect attendance, but for the Gwich鈥檌n, carrying on the culture is worth an accolade.
Valentsi is happy to receive that honor, she says, and 鈥減roud.鈥� She鈥檚 only in fifth grade but already recognizes that these lessons will help keep her culture alive. She knows that it means keeping the Refuge safe.

Caribou meat is hung in a smoke cache, then stored in freezers for the winter. Youth learn from the elders how to prepare and store food to last through the cold months. Photo: Keri Oberly
鈥溑凡┗嵩比肟� have to protect the caribou for the generations to come,鈥� Valentsi mumbles as she takes a break from working on traditional mitt聽strings.
She鈥檚 still just a kid, after all.
Some experts, however, might deem kids like Valentsi particularly 鈥渟uccessful.鈥� Ronald Ferguson, an economist who teaches public policy at the Harvard Kennedy School, has written about raising successful children, and his equation is simple. He says they鈥檝e got to be smart with a sense of purpose and agency鈥攁ka the ability to step up and follow through on achieving their purpose, a combo that equals full聽realization.
鈥淎ctivism very clearly entails having purpose and then acting on that purpose,鈥� Ferguson says. 鈥淚f you鈥檙e an effective advocate, you probably did it in a way that was pretty intelligent.鈥�
If they鈥檝e got the skills, why stop?
Passing along survival skills in the land of months-long darkness will help keep the Refuge safe, argue tribal members. Ultimately, it鈥檚 what will keep their people safe. Members of the Gwich鈥檌n have been going around the US to tell representatives why the fossil fuel industry has no place in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. Gilbert, for instance, went to Washington, DC, to lobby on behalf of the Gwich鈥檌n Steering Committee back in 2016. Pascal was in New York City just this past April to meet with United Nations officials.

Members of the Gwich鈥檌n Steering Committee at a press conference in front of the United States Capitol in Washington, DC. The Gwich鈥檌n know the fight to protect the Refuge isn鈥檛 just about protecting their own backyard, but about protecting sacred spaces everywhere. Photo: Keri Oberly
They want Congress to understand that the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge isn鈥檛 just a piece of pristine nature. It鈥檚 The Sacred Place Where Life Begins, as the Gwich鈥檌n describe it. Before it was a national wildlife refuge, these were Gwich鈥檌n hunting grounds. Just as the Porcupine caribou migrate through the Refuge, so did the Gwich鈥檌n historically. In fact, their villages throughout Alaska and Canada exist today, in part, due to this migratory route. But they would never enter the Refuge coastal plain.
They know that Porcupine caribou migrate through these lands to eventually arrive at the Refuge coastal plain to give birth to their calves safely. In the coastal plain, caribou can avoid predators more common to the surrounding mountains and find refuge from insects, like mosquitoes on ice fields and gravel bars. It鈥檚 their haven.
鈥淚t is our belief that the future of the Gwich鈥檌n and the future of the caribou are the same,鈥� said the late Gwich鈥檌n elder Jonathan Solomon. 鈥淗arm to the Porcupine caribou herd is harm to the Gwich鈥檌n culture and a millennia-old way of life.鈥�
Bringing youth into this equation鈥攁nd connecting them to the land鈥攊s key to maintaining this space for wildlife. They need to understand what鈥檚 at stake if it鈥檚 lost.
Really, though, youth reclaiming their culture isn鈥檛 happening only in the Arctic. It鈥檚 happening worldwide and all in the name of their lands, water and world. A lot of this newfound energy took hold in 2016 when Sioux youth decided to take a stance against the Dakota Access pipeline. They completed a 2,000-mile relay run from Standing Rock in North Dakota to Washington, DC, to deliver a petition opposing the oil project.
While that pipeline wound up happening, the energy to resist lives on today鈥攊n the Gwich鈥檌n, for instance.
Gilbert and Firth have been walking these frozen lands as long as they can remember. Their people have depended on the caribou since time immemorial. Whenever the young couple journeys the Refuge, they may see duck and geese fly over, or run into an elusive gray wolf while hunting caribou. But all that is at risk now.
鈥淚t鈥檚 just beautiful. Everything is quiet. You hear nothing but animals,鈥� Gilbert says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 home.鈥�
Editor’s note, November 2020:聽Since we published this article in November 2019, the Trump administration has pushed ahead with plans to open up the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge for development and oil drilling. Permits have been expedited in recent months and local communities are worried extractive work could begin as early as this winter. But more than 20 major financial institutions are now refusing to finance oil development in the Arctic鈥攁nd with a new President in the White House, there is renewed hope for protecting the Refuge.
Protect the Arctic and Stand with the Gwich'in
Drilling will destroy intact wilderness and violate the human rights of the Gwich鈥檌n, who rely on this sacred place to sustain their culture and way of life. The Gwich鈥檌n are fighting to protect their future, but they can鈥檛 win this battle alone.