M膩lama Honua: 贬艒办奴濒别鈥榓鈥檚 Voyage of Hope
Part 2, The S膩moan Way
This year marks the 100th anniversary of the U.S. National Parks鈥攁nd on the worldwide M膩lama Honua voyage, the crew of the 聽has visited several, including those in American S膩moa, St John in the Caribbean, the Everglades in Florida, and coming up in early June, Governors Island in New York City. Along the way, the crew has learned how every community has its own way of practicing M膩lama Honua, to care for our earth. The S膩moan way was clearly communicated by Pua Tuaua, National Park Ranger when the canoe was docked in Pago Pago, American S膩moa, in September 2015.
鈥淥ur land is probably the most valuable asset of our people,鈥� Pua explained.
While the crew of 贬艒办奴濒别驶补 was visiting schools, teaching children how 贬艒办奴濒别驶补 embodies M膩lama Honua, Pua was beginning his day in the park ranger鈥檚 office in downtown Pago Pago. Pua鈥檚 office overlooks Pago Pago Harbor, a deeply protected bay with a shoreline that winds and wraps five miles into the center of the island. On one side of the harbor, there鈥檚 the governor鈥檚 mansion, on the other, Rainmaker Mountain. Along the docks, you鈥檒l find crowds of fishing boats: Pago Pago is the most profitable commercial fishing port in the South Pacific bearing the U.S. flag.

From the deck of 贬艒办奴濒别驶补, you can see, smell, and hear the commercial fishing industry hard at work in Pago Pago Harbor. Photo: John Bilderback

Local paddlers practicing 鈥淧addling As One,鈥� a philosophy that unifies all of Polynesia. Photo: John Bilderback
Along with a team of rangers and marine biologists, Pua is responsible for overseeing and managing 2,500 acres of rainforest and 1,200 acres of beach, ocean, and coral ecosystems across American S膩moa. No small task. The park is the only U.S. National Park south of the equator. In American S膩moa the United States leases the parkland from the village matai. Back in 1993, when the U.S. government tried to buy the land, the matai said, 鈥淥ur land is not for sale.鈥� Since S膩moan custom forbids the selling of land, the final decision to lease the land was based on a collective vote by the village council. The rental income is then distributed to all the constituents of the village.
鈥淟ittering is one of our main problems right now,鈥� Pua said. To Pua, his care of the land extends beyond just the parklands. It extends throughout his island home. 鈥淟itter. It鈥檚 a major, major, major concern right now.鈥�
In S膩moan, M膩lama Honua can be expressed as m膩lamalama e fanua, which means, to understand the earth. S膩moans believe that in order to care for the earth, you must first understand your land, and from this understanding comes compassion, empathy, and love. This belief unites the entire archipelago of S膩moa鈥擜merican S膩moa, five islands and two coral atolls, and the Independent State of S膩moa, which includes two islands. Situated on the Pacific Ring of Fire, where tectonic plates converge, these volcanic islands rose up from the ocean floor over a million years ago.
鈥淚n the old days, we didn鈥檛 have plastics,鈥� he explained. 鈥淧lastics are everywhere.鈥�

The ancient design of the sister canoes 贬艒办奴濒别驶补 and Hikianalia offers a sharp backdrop to the realities of modern day pollution. Photo: John Bilderback

En route to a neighboring island for a school visit, crewmember Rex Lokeni collects floating debris, including a deflated child鈥檚 play pool. Photo: John Bilderback
Plastic is the prime invasive species throughout the Pago Pago harbor and the thoroughfares around the island. A soda bottle on the side of the street, a plastic bag wrapping your ankle in a swim, a cup on your hike through the community college medicinal garden. But in more remote areas, away from the center of Pago Pago, you can see how the rainforest, lowlands, and beaches still flourish, unpolluted, seemingly untouched.
People used to weave a laufola, a bowl, out of leaves, or fashion a cup out of a coconut shell. You could take these anywhere, to the beach or to the forest, and leave them on the land or in the sea, as they would naturally biodegrade.
鈥淏ut it鈥檚 plastic now,鈥� Pua explained, that folks just toss out, not realizing it will never biodegrade.
Plastic, aluminum, Styrofoam鈥攊t all comes in through the harbor鈥檚 main shipping yard. Ship containers, ten stories deep and four stories high, are stacked in the yard. An estimated 1,000 containers come into this harbor every month, providing the island with 90 percent of its food and supplies. This is a concern to Pua, who grew up as a fisherman, a hunter, and a farmer who harvested taro, bananas, and breadfruit. This is a man who used to spear fish in the harbor, but who now has to venture out of the harbor and to the outer reefs to find any fish at all. This is a man who used to hunt wild pig in the rainforest, a man who in the mere fifty-year span of his life has witnessed the shift from a relatively independent sustainable existence to a highly dependent unsustainable lifestyle.
鈥淢y family was poor,鈥� Pua recalled. 鈥溑凡┗嵩比肟� didn鈥檛 have a refrigerator, so we would only fish for what we could eat now.鈥� Fishing and hunting and farming are survival skills no longer required of children. 鈥淭oday everybody鈥檚 going shopping at the store.鈥�
鈥淭he rainforest, that鈥檚 where the S膩moans used to turn to long, long time ago,鈥� he said. 鈥淣ow, today, McDonald鈥檚 is here.鈥�
鈥淎ll the kids say, McDonald鈥檚! I want to go to McDonald鈥檚!鈥� but Pua offers another option. 鈥淟et鈥檚 go in the forest. Let鈥檚 go back to the land.鈥�

Slippers off, minds on, children listen intently as crewmembers share stories about the Worldwide Voyage to M膩lama Honua, Care for the Earth. Photo: John Bilderback

Crewmember Rex Lokeni grew up in American S膩moa and first saw 贬艒办奴濒别驶补 when he was a young boy about the same age of the one standing beside him here. Back then, Rex says, he dreamed of one day sailing on 贬艒办奴濒别驶补. Rex encourages the children to follow their dreams as they navigate toward their future. Photo: John Bilderback
To guide children back to the land, Pua teaches them how to pick a coconut, how to weave a basket, how to catch a fish. Pua is hoping to teach them how to be independent of imported goods. He鈥檚 encouraging them to pick up trash, even if that means you need to walk a few blocks with the trash in your hands until you find the nearest trashcan.
Small lessons. Large gains.
鈥淚鈥檓 trying to teach kids to think ten years from now, five years from now, what鈥檚 going to happen if we keep doing this? It鈥檚 not going to be good. It鈥檚 not going to be good for the environment, and it won鈥檛 be good for us, the people.鈥�
In 2012, the local Environmental Protection Agency banned plastic bags. Those who do not comply are fined. The EPA distributes alternatives called Bio Bags, made from corn, with a set expiration date, as they will naturally biodegrade in 180 days.
Pua spoke of mana, a word that is also used in Hawaiian, meaning spirit.
鈥淚f I had so much mana I would make everybody go back to the rainforest,鈥� Pua explained. 鈥淕o to the rainforest. Get a peace of mind.鈥�

National Park Ranger Pua Tuaua guided the crew through a walk in the rainforest, before returning to this main daily task, guiding local children to take care of their island home. Photo: John Bilderback

American S膩moa, situated near the International Date Line, is the last place on earth to see the sun rise. Photo: John Bilderback

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